By Tegan Welsch-Rainek.
Starting on a nice warm, sunny day with bright blue skies, my hike began with a steady climb up switchbacks, accompanied by the trickle of a nearby forest stream. As I gained elevation, the trail transitioned into a lush tree line with aspen and pine standing tall and surrounding me. A squirrel’s nest and the presence of bark beetles reminded me of the intricate web of life thriving here. The sun overhead cast dappled light through the leaves, creating a serene atmosphere.
As I marched at a steady pace, the dirt path under my sandals showed signs of yesterday’s storm with sections partially washed out and still damp. To my right, wildflowers added a splash of color to the green surroundings. A downed tree, recently cleared by the Continental Divide Trail Coalition, ensured the path remained unobstructed. In the distance, I glimpsed below the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad, its narrow-gauge tracks winding through the landscape toward a famous scenic overlook at Windy Point. I paused and scanned the landscape for a hint of distant smoke from the historical steam locomotive.
As I climbed higher, a mild burn in my legs reminded me this wasn’t my first hike of the day. I was steadily walking uphill at a good pace. A persistent bug buzzed around my head adding to the rustic charm of this adventure. The higher I climbed the more the scenery unfolded. I paused to take in the breathtaking view: layers of trees and mountain ridges, creating a natural tapestry. In the distance, wildfire smoke hugged the landscape.
Below, a small lake glistened, and I found myself wondering if it held any native trout. The green aspen leaves continued their dance and I felt compelled to press on, knowing the best views were yet to come. Re-entering a shaded pine forest section, the cool respite from the sun was welcome. Fresh sawdust on the ground marked where another tree had fallen, possibly struck by lightning from a recent spring storm.
Close to the top, elevation made me slightly breathless, not being accustomed to hiking at 10,000-11,000 feet, but I maintained a good pace, nonetheless. New aspen sprouts and a small patch of dirty, lingering snow nestled in moss and lichen added touches of late spring’s renewal. The solitude of the trail was profound with no other hikers in sight. I dream of someday tackling the entire San Luis Valley section of the Continental Divide Trail.
Sweat beaded on my forehead as I climbed higher. The longing to share a short part of this journey with a thru-hiker briefly crossed my mind, but the beauty of the landscape kept my spirits high. Emerging from the tree line at a mountain ledge, I was rewarded with a panoramic view of the valley below, a distant river and a higher view of a lake surrounded by yellow wildflowers. The faint rumble of distant cars contrasted with the tranquility of nature.
I had to backtrack slightly to rejoin the main path, but the detour for the view was worth it. A large rock face loomed to my right as I walked along the ridgeline, the wind’s whistle growing louder. A meadow began to come into focus on my left, skunk cabbage lining the edge of the tree line. A plaque marking the Continental Divide Scenic Trail caught my eye. It was nailed to a small pine tree. The fresh pine sprouts on the tree signaled the approach of the summer. I paused, plucked one off, and popped it in my mouth which immediately overwhelmed me with a citrusy, woodsy flavor.
Turning another bend, the 360-degree view was nothing short of spectacular. Meadows, fluffy white clouds, bark beetle-affected trees, and rock cliffs created a dynamic ever-changing landscape. Though I wished to continue, I had to turn back, not equipped for an overnight stay. The thought of returning with proper gear was already forming in my mind.
Descending the path, my perspective shifted, revealing new views. A deer print in the dry mud surrounded by dandelions and a butterfly landing on my sandal added a touch of whimsy to the descent. Nearing the bottom, the sounds of traffic grew louder, signaling the end of my solitude.
My sandals made a distinct flip-flop sound on the steep incline adding a humorous endnote to my adventure. The stream’s gentle noise grew louder, indicating the parking lot’s proximity. The horn blast of the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad echoed, bringing my hike to a close. Despite not seeing the train from higher up, the day’s beauty left me with no complaints. In the parking lot, pine tree pollen swirling in puddles marked the end of a memorable journey and I knew I was hooked, already planning an overnight hike on the Continental Divide Trail.
The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) is a long-distance hiking trail that spans approximately 3,100 miles from the Mexican border in New Mexico to the Canadian border in Montana. The Continental Divide Trail enters the San Luis Valley at Monarch Pass, leaving Salida, and winds its way through the west side of the valley before exiting on the southwest side at the top of Cumbres Pass into New Mexico. There are numerous trailheads throughout the valley should you be interested in walking a short section. I walked a portion of Section 32.
Directions from Crestone, CO to the top of Cumbres Pass, where the Continental Divide Trail is located:
From County Road T, turn left onto CO-17 south for about 40 miles. Turn right onto US-285 south for about 54 miles. Turn right onto CO-17 south/US-285 south and follow it for about three miles before turning left onto CO-17 south. Continue on CO-17 south for about 39 miles until you reach Antonito, CO. In Antonito, turn right onto CO-17 south/Conejos Ave. and follow CO-17 south for about 27 miles to reach the top of Cumbres Pass. You will see the trailhead sign on either side of the road. There are several entrances scattered throughout the valley, with some closer to Crestone if you prefer a shorter drive.
Just a friendly reminder: Please prioritize safety and follow local rules while hiking. Before heading out, inform someone of your plans, familiarize yourself with the area, hike with a friend using the buddy system, check the weather forecast and dress in layers with appropriate footwear. Additionally, always carry an emergency bag containing essentials such as a first aid kit, local maps, GPS, compass, warm hat, gloves, sunscreen, jacket/raincoat, flashlight, waterproof matches, rope, pocket knife/multifunctional tool, solar cellphone charger and cord, dehydrated food, water purification kit, space blanket, bear spray, GPS emergency beacon and an ample supply of water. It’s always better to be prepared for emergencies or bad weather.
Join us next time as we venture further into the wilderness, uncovering the stories and wonders that await around every bend.
Until then, happy trails!